2009 Quinta do Ribeirinho Pe Franco

The 2009 QUINTA DO RIBEIRINHO “BAGA PE FRANCO,” not yet in the USA marketplace but retasted in the USA along with the 2008, was the most interesting Ribeirinho that I had at the winery. By that, I don’t necessarily mean best, although it might be, just the most interesting. It seemed very different, sweeter, riper, still in beautiful balance and a remarkable effort at taming Baga. If it lacks the steely demeanor of the 2008, many, I imagine, will prefer this vintage as something fleshier and more approachable. They may also flip flop in peoples’ preferences along the way as they age and as different snap shots are taken in their development. Both are true to their vintages and what Mother Nature provided. I expect the ‘08 to show increasingly fine balance along the way and this to shed its baby fat. In their own way, they are both terrific and I won’t be surprised if they converge in a decade or so. Both have room for improvement and may deserve an uptick. Drink 2015-2029. These were poured as part of verticals and other “studies” at Pato’s winery, which is probably Portugal’s best known Baga producer. Everything here was retasted in the USA, but for the two library wines (the 1990 Vinhas Velhas and the 2001 Vinhas Velhas). For Pato, it is Baga and more Baga—sparklers may be blanc de noir, although a little pink. They are (except the Duet) all Baga. The sweet Abafados are Baga, too. (The white wines, however, are not, but even the Fernao Pires has 6% Baga skins.) Baga, with somewhat rustic tendencies, is not always the easiest grape from Portugal to appreciate as it can be quite difficult to master both as a winemaker and consumer, with high acidity and astringency being par for the course. A bit contrary to modern trends, it is also likelier to be earthy than sweet. But if pure Baga can be civilized, if it has a high expression and makes its case, this is one of the short list places where you most likely will learn to appreciate it. Pato has a longstanding reputation as the man who has made Bairrada (although he often uses regional designations), but it still seems to me, even given my past incarnations as a Baga agnostic, that he has upped his game of late and proven his points. I’ve never been happier with his wines than with this collection. These recent releases are consistent and increasingly superb—and with minor exceptions there are often terrific values here, like the Vinhas Velhas Branco and the sparklers, not to mention the delicious Abafados. Both reds and whites were very fine and may yet have further room for improvement as they develop in the cellar. Note: the sparklers come with no real appellation designation, but Pato says that they aren’t quite Vinho de Mesa because they have a grape and vintage designation. Also, apart from the library wines here, some of these are not imported, in particular, the Vinha Formal 2011, Vinha Barrosa 2009 and 2010 and the Fernao Pires, which is all rather regrettable, but still leaves a lot of fine wines and excellent values Importer: Wine in Motion, Union, N.J.; tel: 908-688-3837