2014 Roxheimer Hollenpfad
Prezzo di mercato
Opzioni di acquisto
Note di degustazione
Helmut and Cornelius Dönnhoff are out to revive the imposingly butte-like Höllenpfad (“path to hell”), whose reputation peaked close to a century ago when it was farmed by some of their relatives whose cellar was an adjacent 13th-century hospital. “Because this site is relatively warm and close to the Rhine there was more botrytis,” explained Dönnhoff Senior, “and we had to pick it very early.” Smoky pungency of nut oils and black tea practically assaults the nose, then carries over to a firm palate, adding to the invigorating quality supplied by tart rhubarb and apple. There is a prickly sense to the high-energy, gripping finish that suggests peach fuzz and pineapple core. This wine could wake you from a dead sleep. (The 2013, when tasted alongside, is now even more fascinating and mouthwatering, not to mention more mannerly.)
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Altre recensioni e punteggi
From red sandstone soils, the 2014 Riesling trocken Höllenpfad offers a lovely, clear and refined aromatic bouquet that intermingles Riesling and lemon flavors with the purity and flintiness of the sandstone terroir that delivers only small-sized, botrytis-free berries. Silky and round on the palate, this medium to full-bodied and crystalline Riesling reveals a stunning depth, elegance, power and intensity in the finish, which must be the result of 45-year-old vines.
Not in the mood for dancing, but just a little more approachable than the Kahlenberg. Green fruit and a chalky expression are moderated by a gentle flowery note. Just as the mood and taste appear to soften, a firm mineral grip on the finish reminds us that we are dealing with a serious substance of minerality. (MS)