2016 Westhofener Kirchspiel Grosses Gewachs

Crab apple, lime, chalk dust and a nose-wrinkling sharpness of chili pepper combine for a forceful aromatic introduction to this characteristically stone- and chalk-suffused example of Kirchspiel Riesling. The palate impression is dense and the feel is polished, though the stubbornly persistent finish is pithily piquant and takes the wine’s sense of mineral suffusion in a strikingly palpable direction. Thyme and sage serve for trigeminal stimulation and a cooling finishing accent. As usual, this Wittmann offering is more formidable than fun. I’m not surprised – given prevailing tastes among German wine critics and self-described Riesling geeks – that this bottling, along with its Morstein stablemate, typically scores top marks in domestic tastings.

Although the Kirchspiel opens with its usual generous exhibition of exotic and stone fruit aromas, a delightful fragrance of highly scented Mediterranean herbs adds intrigue. On the palate, juicy peaches and nectarines are joined by exotic spice, sweet herbs and a subtle sprinkling of dusty minerality. Ample acidity provides contours to a full body. Three-dimensional Grosses Gewächs: you can smell it, taste it and feel it! (MS)