2015 Oestrich Doosberg Grosses Gewachs

Kühn's dry, intensely yellow colored 2015 Rheingau Riesling Oestrich Doosberg "Grosse Lage" opens deep, ripe and rich on the nose, with spicy sur lie notes and even a touch of fresh oak but also refreshing mineral and quartzite aromas. On the palate, this is a wide and generous yet pure, vital and tensioned Doosberg with a tight structure and lingering salinity. The Doosberg is provided with its characteristic and, at the moment, almost austere minerality and aromatic fruit flavors of yellow peaches/nectarines. Although the 2015 Doosberg also still needs time to develop, its finish is already impressive today. There is a bit of great Pinot Noir in this wine in terms of the texture, finesse and structure. The wine was aged for 20 months on the lees in a 30-hectoliter oak vat and two 1,200-liter Stück vats.

NB vintage. Almost having fallen under the spell of the Kühn Grosse Gewächse I finally detected something to be critical about. The opulence of exotic fruit shown by the Doosberg! At first mango and papaya seem to overpower the herbal and mineral nuances, but if you let the wine linger on the palate, they still come through to complement the sweet and generous nature of the fruit. Leaves the sweetest impression of Kühn’s three Grosse Gewächse, but does have the acidity to balance it. (MS)