2003 Riesling G-Max Trocken

Keller's 2003 Riesling G-Max is a legendary wine from a historic vintage that has been as warm as any vintage before. Served as the fifth wine of the vertical, the 2003 indicates very ripe and concentrated fruit on the intense nose that is almost cooked but also shows fine rocky notes. Fresh, vital and salty on the very savory palate, this is a dense, enormously rich, complex and also complete Riesling that appears ageless and develops spectacular length. This is an unexpected great, multi-layered G-Max from an often underestimated vintage. How did one of the doyens of German Riesling comment on the 2003? Helmut Dönnhoff said, "You should never underestimate maturity. There is no substitute for it." And Egon Müller, who served me a 1959 Auslese and a 1976 to accompany his 2003 Scharzhofbergers once, said, "In view of our experience with hot vintages, I'm not worried about the development of our 2003s." Keller's G-Max is further proof of the quality of the 2003s from the very best producers. Tasted at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.

Tasted blind. A fascinating fragrance with notes of baked apple, candied orange, caramel and even a notion of Belgian chocolate, which says less about the varietal typicity of Riesling, but more about the relentless dry heat of the summer of 2003. On the palate the wine takes on an almost burgundian opulence and creaminess, although it has managed to retain enough acidity to keep blandness at bay. Subtle toasty and nutty elements evoke associations with fine Meursault. A beautiful notion of exotic fruit lingers on the finish, but the last word goes to a delicious salty minerality, demonstrating the value of deep roots in the arid conditions of the vintage. (MS)