2016 Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese

A heady nose of decadent lily, musky peony, pineapple, pink grapefruit, cassis and overripe Persian melon sets the stage for a subtly creamy, expansive, rich yet delicate palate impression, with pineapple and grapefruit serving for welcome tang and brightness to complement the wine’s textural creaminess, effusive inner-mouth perfume and luscious but overripe fruit tendencies. The combination of richness and exuberance here is really striking, and the superbly sustained finish is both ringingly clear and infectiously juicy, virtues one doesn’t encounter often in an Auslese and that I least expected in one from the Doctor. Haag says that the fruit here was botrytis-free and that is indeed how it tastes. What an auspicious first-ever Schloss Lieser Doctor Auslese! (And this wine was not auctioned but instead sold to private customers and the trade through the estate’s regular price list.)

Herbal, smoky and a touch salty on the nose. Really tangy. On the palate, silky, almost gentle citrus depth, caressing but still fresh. Deep, crisp and full of apricots. Needs time. (JH)