2015 Hermitage la Maison Bleue

Opaque purple. Powerful, highly complex aromas of red/blue fruit preserves, licorice, olive paste and potpourri carry a sexy floral overtone. Coats the palate with intense black and blue fruit and spicecake flavors; a sappy violet pastille nuance gains strength with air and lends an exotic touch. Velvety, even tannins shape an impressively long, chewy, mineral-accented finish that shows outstanding power and spicy thrust.

A new cuvée that’s replacing the Petit Chapelle, the 2015 Hermitage La Maison Bleue comes from grapes on the eastern side of the appellation, which is more limestone, clay, and sedimentary soils. Brought up in 20% new oak (which is the same for all the reds), it offers a rich, opulent, incredibly sexy style as well as full-bodied notes of black raspberry, blackberry jam, toasted bread, and spice. With tons of sweet fruit, no hard edges, and a great finish, it’s a much more in your face, pedal-to-the-metal effort compared to the more structured La Chapelle. If anyone had any doubts about the incredible turn around in quality this estate has seen since being taken over by Caroline Frey and winemaker Jacques Desvernois in 2006, these latest 2015s should put those doubts to rest. This is unquestionably the finest set of releases I’ve tasted from the estate, and the top reds rival, and in a number of cases surpass, the 2009s and 2010s. While the lineup remains relatively unchanged, the La Petite Chapelle has been done away with and is replaced by the La Maison Bleue cuvee, which driven by vineyards located on the eastern side of Hermitage Hill, as opposed to being a second wine for the La Chapelle cuvee. I continue to think the whites could use more richness and opulence, yet they’re impeccably made and carry their fresher, vibrant style nicely.

Replacing La Petite Chapelle in the Jaboulet lineup is the 2015 Hermitage La Maison Bleue. Rather than being a selection of lots that didn’t make the cut for La Chapelle, it’s more terroir-based, with the wine coming from the eastern (non-granitic) side of the appellation. Because of that, it’s softer in style, with a rich, velvety texture. Cedar and spice notes frame cassis and cola notes, lingering through the long, supple finish.