2012 Hill of Grace Shiraz

For me, the least of the Hill of Graces tasted from this decade: still a good wine, with some plummy fruit and tight, youthful tannins and good length, but doesn’t have quite the distinctive character of the other vintages; a bit unyielding and unformed, perhaps in a developmental slump. (MA)

Deep, shimmering purple. Displays an array of ripe, mineral-accented black and blue fruit preserve, floral, tobacco and spice qualities on the hugely perfumed nose. Stains the palate with sweet, penetrating blueberry, Chambord, cherry liqueur and fruitcake flavors that take on vanilla, espresso and smoky mineral nuances as the wine stretches out. Conveys a jaw-dropping exhibition of power and restraint and finishes extremely long, sweet and precise, with smooth tannins framing lingering dark fruit and lavender pastille notes. This wine's marriage of depth to delicacy is something else.

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2012 Hill of Grace Shiraz is a little reticent on the nose to begin, opening out to a somewhat paradoxically tantalizing Black Forest cake, beef dripping, fertile loam and tree bark nose with hints of black pepper, Marmite, bay leaves, eucalyptus, licorice and baker’s chocolate. The medium to full-bodied palate is a wonderfully intricate mélange of mineral, savory, dark fruits and spice layers, framed by velvety tannins and refreshing acidity, finishing epically. This is a truly great Hill of Grace that has just entered the first stage of its drinking window and should continue to develop beautifully over the next 25+ years.