2016 Cote Rotie La Mordoree

Blackberries, crushed violets, ample minerality, and some scorched earth notes all emerge from the 2016 Côte Rôtie La Mordorée. Made from 100% Syrah brought up in 30% new barrels, it's medium to full-bodied, tight and concentrated on the palate, with good acidity, plenty of extract, and a great finish. It has plenty of upfront charm, yet a tighter, firm core that's going to benefit from short-term cellaring. It’s capable of lasting for 20-25 years. The estate of firebrand Michel Chapoutier continues to operate on all cylinders, and these latest 2016 and 2017 releases are world class for this address. The 2017 whites show the gradual change toward a more reductive style of winemaking, and the wines at times have an almost Burgundian feel in their minerality, acidity, and texture. Nevertheless, they’re fabulously concentrated and rich and will need 2-4 years of cellaring. The 2016 whites showed beautifully, and I prefer those to the 2017s. The majority of the 2017 reds were tasted as barrel samples. This is a ripe, sexy, expressive vintage for the Northern Rhône, and this shows in the wines. The 2017s don’t appear to have the density of the more blockbuster styled 2015s, yet they have expressive, sunny characters that will deliver loads of charm. The 2016s having slightly more density and cooler-climate styled aromatics, yet are nevertheless some of the richest, sexiest wines in the vintage. In addition to the frightfully expensive top-tier cuvées, don’t miss the value releases from this estate. These wines max out the QPR scale and are great introductions into the wines of Chapoutier as well as the Rhône Valley.

A blend of old vines in the lieux-dits of Côte Brune and Côte Blonde, the 2016 Cote Rotie la Mordorée shows a bit of cedary oak up front (it spent 18 months in 30% new barriques). It's full-bodied and ripe on the palate, with herb-tinged red fruit notes that show mammoth complexity and a fine, silky, long finish.

Inky ruby. Powerful, smoke-tinged blackberry and cherry liqueur aromas pick up a sexy floral nuance and hints of olive with aeration. Fleshy and broad on the palate, offering deeply concentrated yet lively black and blue fruit preserve, cola and violet pastille flavors energized by a core of juicy acidity and a vibrant mineral quality. Finishes chewy, sweet and extremely long, featuring building tannins and a strong echo of peppery spices and minerals.