2007 Wintricher Ohligsberg Spatlese

The 2007 Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Spatlese was unusually slow to ferment, and Theo Haart says he intends to release it late. Lavender, pear, lemon, grapefruit, blueberry, and fennel are among the striking elements in play in a Spatlese of amazing density and viscosity, exhibiting true cream of slate character allied to high-toned distilled fruit esters and bright citricity. Had it not been for the absence of botrytis, this would surely have been bottled as Auslese. It finishes blazingly bright even as it resonates with deep richness of pit fruit concentrates and stone. What fun it will be to compare this outstanding quartet of Haart Spatlesen over the next 20 or more years! Theo and son Johannes Haart had memorable success in 2007, a vintage Haart senior compares in quality and style with 2001, and whose wines he thinks will need longer than usual to show their true meddle. This year’s surprisingly numerous dry-tasting wines seem on the whole marginally disappointing, although those wines too deserve patience. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463