2009 Lieser Niederberg Helden Aulsese Lange Goldkapsel

The Schloss Lieser 2009 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule – selected-out around the middle of harvest (and with the words “Lange Goldkapsel” – following this year’s pattern – on the label) – displays a prickly aromatic pungency of botrytis suggesting radish, candied lemon rind and fresh ginger, which in turn ally themselves with peach and apricot preserves, the whole managing to retain a delightfully fresh, juicy side of peach, apricot, and Persian melon to compliment its confitured aspect. Subtle suggestions of nut paste add a further level to the proceedings, and this finishes with richness yet freshness; lip-licking salinity; and an arresting sense of levitational delicacy. It should merit 40 or more years of attention. Thomas Haag picked from mid October until almost the middle of November. “The only drawback” of extending the harvest so late, he insists, “was 15% losses vis-a-vis 2008, thanks to the necessary selection. There was really not much botrytis. We made two T.B.A.s which are still fermenting (that was in mid-September), but we didn’t make any B.A.” With the exception of the aforementioned T.B.A.s, and an inaugural Grosses Gewachs (from the Niederberg Helden) that I unfortunately realized too late I had inexplicably been deprived of an opportunity to taste, all of this collection was bottled already in April. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463