2009 Niederberg Helden Spatlese

Slaty minerality with a spontaneous-fermentation tang. Very fresh and lively on the palate, with a taste of tangerines, but dominated by the mineral theme. A little raw right now, but with undoubted potential. (MS)

At a mere 7.5% alcohol, the Schloss Lieser 2009 Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spatlese projects glazed pineapple and brown-spiced apple, with a luscious and exuberantly juicy core of fruit not at all weighed down by the analytically high residual sugar, and a spirit-lifting sense of buoyancy. Considerable retained CO2 reinforces the personality of a long-finishing wine likely to remain vibrant for 15-20 years. Thomas Haag picked from mid October until almost the middle of November. “The only drawback” of extending the harvest so late, he insists, “was 15% losses vis-a-vis 2008, thanks to the necessary selection. There was really not much botrytis. We made two T.B.A.s which are still fermenting (that was in mid-September), but we didn’t make any B.A.” With the exception of the aforementioned T.B.A.s, and an inaugural Grosses Gewachs (from the Niederberg Helden) that I unfortunately realized too late I had inexplicably been deprived of an opportunity to taste, all of this collection was bottled already in April. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463