2016 Condrieu Les Terrasses de l'Empire

Rather discreet nose. Has good purity of stone-fruit flavour, but not as much punch and power as you’d expect. Very much an understated style. (RH)

Limpid yellow. Incisive aromas of fresh citrus and orchard fruits, ginger and violet are joined by hints of chalky minerals, fennel and white pepper. Juicy and sharply focused on the palate, offering fresh pear and Meyer lemon flavors that show impressive clarity and minerally drive. The citrus fruit and floral notes come back strong on the vibrant finish, which hangs on with excellent focus and tenacity.

The 2016 Condrieu Les Terrasses De L'Empire, the entry-level effort, is a fresh, elegant, gorgeously layered Condrieu that has plenty of intensity and depth in its white peach, tangerine, white flowers and citrus aromas and flavors. The benchmark estate in Condrieu is unquestionably that of Christine Vernay, who pulls from the magical hillside of Coteau du Vernon located just behind her home. This is pure granite terroir and all three of her Condrieu come basically from this steep hillside. Christine prefers a slightly longer élevage on her Condrieu, with the 2015s being the current release. I’ll review her 2016s next year. In addition to heavenly Condrieu, she makes a terrific set of Côte Rôtie.