2015 Westhofener Kirchspiel Grosses Gewachs

Issuing solely from a parcel planted in 1964, this leads with Sauvignon-like pungency of mint and pennyroyal, allied to an anticipation of the apple and lime that brightly inform a silken-textured palate. The superbly sustained finish cools and refreshes in its amalgam of juicy, resinous green-herb- and chalk-infused fresh fruit.

From 51-year-old vines on very barren rocks, Keller's 2015 Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken GG is clear, intense and precise on the nose. It is very ripe and concentrated, provided with refreshingly chalky lemon and even discreet mocha/nougat flavors. Great purity and vitality on the palate, but it also has lots of power! Its power is very well captured by the concentration of everything: fruit, minerals and acidity. The 2015 Kirchspiel is full of terroir and vintage expression, a dense and round, yet tension-filled and vitalizing Riesling. This wine has a very linear and straight-forward character, with an enormous complexity and power, as well as finesse, grip and minerality. Keller's Kirchspiel was picked in two passes: one earlier and one later. "It was important to keep the grapes shadowed and to not pick too early," says Keller, who was still full of fear in August, due to the drought and heat. But he is pretty happy with the result, today.

The combination of passion fruit and mint is enough to send lovers of ice cream into ecstasy, but it finds an even higher echelon of expression in the fragrance of Keller’s Kirchspiel. With gooseberry, mango and passion fruit there’s an abundance of fruit, but it is presented with finesse against a subtle backdrop of fresh, green herbs and chalky minerality. Rich texture and mouth-filling flavour reflect the generosity of the vintage, but any opulent exuberance is expertly reined in by a firm, tactile grip of mineral and phenolic components on the finish. (MS)