2015 Graacher Domprobst GG
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From two newly acquired parcels of old vines, Loosen’s first in this prestigious Einzellage, this shares with his two other dry Graach Rieslings of the vintage a pronounced piquancy – indeed, borderline bitterness – of citrus peel and seeds, only partly assuaged by welcome primary juiciness of lemon, grapefruit and apple. This firm-textured, palpably high-extract offering grips impressively and manages to deliver some refreshment, but lacks the mineral complexity of its Himmelreich counterpart. Here is one of those not-infrequent Grosse Gewächse more formidable than fun to drink. Take my suggestion of “2020” less as a “drink by” and more as a “revisit-no-later-than” date. (I last tasted this wine in mid-September 2016, shortly before it was bottled.)
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James Suckling
Mosel Fine Wines
Altre recensioni e punteggi
From 30-year-old vines, the dry 2015 Graacher Domprobst Riesling GG is very clear, deep and pure on the nose, and intertwines flinty stone aromas with darker citrus flavors. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, lush and creamy textured Domprobst; it has vital acidity but probably more sweetness than the gorgeous Himmelreich GG. The finish is long, piquant and salty, complex and displays ripe peach flavors. Very sexy and elegant.
Fresh pear with a tad of spice and a light lactic notion of yoghurt flatter the sense of smell, the overriding sensation on the palate once again provided by an extremely generous texture. There can be no doubt that the fruit for the Domprobst was picked at the peak of ripeness, as proven by a full body, soft mouthfeel and gently sweet interpretation of trocken. (MS)
This is a new wine in Loosen’s range and what a debut it is. Full peach and apricot nose, fuller-bodied, and more exciting than the Himmelreich GG (from the neighboring site in the commune of Graach) with a long silky finish. Sep 2016, www.jamessuckling.com