2015 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese Goldkapsel

The characteristic citricity of this site has here largely given way to heady, ripely scented, drippingly luscious Persian melon and white peach, allied with quince jelly and wreathed in honeysuckle. At once creamy and delicate, this youthfully harmonious elixir introduces subtle suggestions of candied lemon and grapefruit peels on a soothingly sustained finish that incorporates strongly saliva-inducing salinity reminiscent of the collection's Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese. Around one-third of the fruit for this was botrytis-affected, reported Katharina Prüm. (There was also an auctioned Himmelreich Auslese Goldkapsel, but I have not had opportunity to taste it.)

Surely the snow queen of Auslese Goldkaps? Introvert and smoky. A fine-boned delicacy - like a feather dipped in apricot syrup and frozen into a snowflake. At the same time there's apricot kernel and a hint of deliciously ripe fruit, voluptuousness all but hidden under a cloak of coruscating acidity. Pain and pleasure. Sep 2016, www.jancisrobinson.com, Drink: 2023-2036

This offers a gorgeous nose of melon, grapefruit, spices, herbs and honey. The wine develops a superbly clean feel of aniseed fruits, pear and a hint of apricot and honey on the palate, which gives way to a delicately creamy sense of fruits and herbs in the delicately honeyed finish. This is a beautifully elegant and superbly balanced wine in the making. Oct 2016, www.moselfinewines.com, Drink: 2030-2055