2015 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Kabinett Trocken

At 11.3 percent alcohol, this weighs in a full degree higher than its 2014 predecessor, but the effect is still lithe and buoyant. There is a flattering glossy feel to the palate, on which apple, white peach and white currant carry over from the nose to offer tangy, crunchy, piquantly pit- and seed-tinged juiciness. The vibrant and refreshingly persistent finish is transparent to smoky, stony nuances. “This came from five distinct spots on the property,” explained Dannhäuser, “from vines old as well as young.”