2008 Quinta do Vale Dona Maria

A blend of 41 varieties. Ripe damson jam, earthy, meaty, fantastic mouthfeel. Very persistent and aromatic, intense perfume that lingers with the black fruit. Rich and indulgent, but classy and restrained too. (RH)

The 2008 TINTO (QUINTA VALE D. MARIA), a Douro blend, is quite a mouthful. Full and mouthcoating, this powerful wine is a worthy successor to the ’07, bursting with what I call “controlled flavor”—meaning, it is neither candied nor cloying and very much seems like real wine with some character. It still makes you say “this is delicious!” The underlying power lurking here is formidable. The longer it was open, the more powerful it became and it seems like a Vale D. Maria built for the long haul. I imagine debates on the ’07 vs. ’08 will go on for some time and the answer probably will not come until they are both a decade or so down the road. It drank beautifully, and perhaps better, the next day after refrigeration overnight, showing much better balance, and a little more character (although it did not drink as well on Day 2 as its sibling, the CV, reviewed this issue). Although it may be approachable earlier, I’d say it will not likely round into form until about 2014-2015. Drink-2013-2027. Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155.