2015 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Grosses Gewachs
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Here we’re up to 13 percent alcohol, but the Haags maintain that not only is enhanced must weight typical for this site, so is an ability to buffer and ameliorate any effects of elevated alcohol, and this is borne out in the present instance; indeed, I’m amazed at the sense of elegance this conveys. Underlying nuttiness here is slightly less pithy and piquant than in the corresponding Juffer, suggesting hazelnut and hickory, while white peach, grapefruit and lime present a united front of juiciness and animation even as their pits and seeds convey piquancy. The finish is vibrant, gripping, subtly tinged with saliva-liberating salinity and remarkably refreshing for a Grosses Gewächs. This wasn’t harvested until November, “but given how healthy the raw material was,” remarked Haag, “I let it stand in the press overnight.” The corresponding Juffer received slightly shorter pre-fermentative skin contact. (Two-thirds of the volume was fermented and aged in cask.)
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
James Suckling
Mosel Fine Wines
Altre recensioni e punteggi
The 2015 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Trocken GG was partly picked in the second half of October and another part very late towards mid-November, then macerated for ten to 12 hours, and aged until July in 25% stainless steel (the late harvest part) and 75% oak fuders. This Riesling offers a very clear and aromatic bouquet of perfectly ripe fruits, along with the flinty flavors of the Juffer terroir. The wine is pure, dry and fresh, very elegant and piquant on the palate but also full and lush. It has an elegant body and a long, aromatic finish, though is still characterized by its long lees aging. This has promising quality.
Oliver Haag remains a scholar of the old school of spontaneous fermentation, where the pungent smell of crushed green vegetation is even allowed to take a slightly sulphuric expression if it serves the purpose of authenticity. Crunchy, compact, chewy win hands down over creamy or fruity. The Juffer Sonnenuhr delivers the essence of minerality straight to the palate without a fence to sit on. (MS)
As usual, this is more backward than the Juffer (which surrounds this site on three sides), and combines the high notes of that wine with more depth and an earthy touch. This needs time, but is a really sophisticated wine with a lot of subtlety. Sep 2016, www.jamessuckling.com