2015 Felsenturmchen Grosses Gewachs Trocken

Lavender and huckleberry, crushed stone and peach kernel combine for a penetrating nose, and the palate impression, backed by 13% alcohol, is correspondingly intense, almost to the point of severity. The combination of fullness and palpably high extract with slightly lower acidity than in several other dry Dönnhoff 2015s generates a marginally less bright or intricate impression. But there is still welcome fresh lime juiciness; and glowing piquancy of peach kernel and juniper berry, allied with pungency of lavender and incisive impingements of fresh ginger, make for a formidably gripping, energetically invigorating finish.

The 2015 (Schlossböckelheimer) Felsenberg Riesling GG 'Felsentürmchen' is from the steep, south-facing cru with volcanic soils. It opens very pure and stony, with deep, flinty flavors and a lemon perfume sprayed over crushed stones. On the palate, this is a generous, intense and finesse-full Riesling with great intensity and lingering salinity. The wine seems round, but it has less than four grams of residual sugar. In fact, I have rarely tasted a Felsentürmchen that is so generous and Burgundian as this. In terms of texture, complexity and its compact nature, it is a bit like a Pinot Noir from Volnay. A great dry Riesling for sure, and its soul is clearly stony, flinty and more challenging than the smooth Dellchen, for example. The Felsenberg needs its time to show all its talents.

The 2015 (Schlossböckelheimer) Felsenberg Riesling GG 'Felsentürmchen' is from the steep, south-facing cru with volcanic soils. It opens very pure and stony, with deep, flinty flavors and a lemon perfume sprayed over crushed stones. On the palate, this is a generous, intense and finesse-full Riesling with great intensity and lingering salinity. The wine seems round, but it has less than four grams of residual sugar. In fact, I have rarely tasted a Felsentürmchen that is so generous and Burgundian as this. In terms of texture, complexity and its compact nature, it is a bit like a Pinot Noir from Volnay. A great dry Riesling for sure, and its soul is clearly stony, flinty and more challenging than the smooth Dellchen, for example. The Felsenberg needs its time to show all its talents.