2015 Kirchberg

Zesty fresh lemon and a quarry-dust-like suggestion of crushed stone on the nose set the relatively austere, pungent tone for this bottling, as confirmed by incisive mustard seed as well as glowing piquancy of peach kernel on a polished but firm palate. Fresh lemon juiciness conveys welcome refreshment to the penetratingly persistent finish. It will be interesting to witness whether this loosens up with some time in bottle, and I would give it a year or two before even revisiting. (As explained in my introduction, you might need a magnifying glass to find the initials “GG” on its label that testify to this wine’s being a Grosses Gewächs.)

This is the easiest of the H-L wines to understand. It’s delicious right now. Lemon curd, herbal, and habaneros on the nose, as well as mineral freshness balancing the rich body, great tension, energy, and clarity.

The fragrance is showing the acceptable face of spontaneous fermentation with vegetal aromas of elderflower and mint. First Riesling of the day and already the WOW factor! If there is such a thing as crunchy passion fruit, this is it, and rhubarb and sorrel lend a sappy green and invigorating edge. Lifted even more by an almost steely acidity. (MS)