2006 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos

Mid gold. Intensely sweet aroma of reduced apricots and Seville-orange marmalade. There’s also a slight note of button mushrooms. On the palate, stunning clarity and freshness, intense but light on its feet. The sweet apricot and mushroom combination (much more delicious than it might sound) fills the mouth but comes back in to a tight not overly sweet finish thanks to the vibrant acidity. (JH)

(13% alcohol; 11.3 g/l r.s.; a blend of 50% furmint, 30% hárslevelû and the rest zéta and muscat): Full, bright orange-copper color. Aromas of orange peel, toffee, maple syrup and sweet butter, plus some high-toned oak; no shortage of fruit here. Quite concentrated and dense with extract, showing a slightly bitter orange peel edge and steely acidity to the layered flavors of dried apricot, pineapple, anise and botanical herbs. Finishes long, ripe and tactile, with lingering notes of peach nectar and game. There's something cool here that contributes energy to this wine.

The 2006 Tokaji Aszu 5-Puttonyos will be released on the market in 2014. It manages to translate two styles of aszu: the sharp citric-driven Tokaji, thanks to its almost 12 grams per liter total acidity, and the fruit-driven style associated with a warm year. There is a little more residual sugar compared to previous vintages at 160 grams per liter and it was raised in oak for 30 months. It has a seductive, pure aszu bouquet with tropical fruit, dried honey, syrup of fig and orange zest that is very well-defined and already intense. The palate is medium-bodied with a very effervescent entry, Satsuma, grapefruit and mango all vying for attention. It is tight at the moment, even after four years in bottle, but it displays laser-like precision on the mineral finish. Excellent. Drink 2015-2035+ Oremus is one of the most well-known wineries in Tokaji. I visited their winery in the village of Tolcsva, where their 115-hectare vineyard is located. This includes prestigious first class parcels that belonged to the Rakoczi and Szirmay families in the 18th century. And there was a sense of opulence at Oremus that I rarely encountered elsewhere in Tokaj. It not only infused their impressive portfolio, but was translated in their splendid tasting room, furnished with plush antique furniture more suited to a Bordeaux chateau. Of course, that has no bearing on the wines themselves, which are generally top quality and some of the purest Tokaj wines that you will find in the region. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com