2014 Gruner Veltliner Ried Loibenberg Smaragd

Rhubarb tartness and peach-kernel piquancy along with ashen smokiness lend interest to what for its vintage is, despite moderate alcohol, a surprisingly voluminous, glossy palate impression, and to an expansively persistent finish. Hints of nutmeg and blond tobacco reinforce the sweetness suggested by ripe quince and white peach. Despite this bottling’s botrytis influence, I noted a welcome uptick in primary juiciness between how it showed in late May and its post-bottling performance in September. Cress, white pepper and crushed stone add stimulation to the otherwise soothingly lingering finish.