2013 Crozes Hermitage Thalabert

(aged for a year in French oak barrels, 20% of them new): Opaque ruby. Fresh dark berries, cherry pit and peppery spices on the pungent nose. Smoky and focused on the palate, offering juicy blackberry and bitter cherry flavors that deepen and unfold slowly with air. The spicy element comes back on a long, youthfully tannic finish that leaves behind notes of cherry pit, licorice and cracked pepper. Give this promising youngster some air if you plan on opening it any time soon.

Showing beautifully from barrel and now from bottle, the 2013 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert is 100% Syrah that wasn't harvested until October 12th, which is two weeks later than average. Aged 12 months in 20% new French oak, it possesses a finesse-driven style in its blackberry and currant fruits, loamy earth, licorice and peppery herbs. Sweetening up in the glass, with medium to full-bodied depth and richness, it has fine tannin, bright acidity and a clean, classy finish. I'd like more density here, but it's beautifully made and will evolve nicely for a decade.

Saturated ruby. Heady aromas of smoke-tinged dark berries, incense and peppery spices, with a bright mineral quality adding complexity. Sappy and supple on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit flavors that are nicely lifted by juicy acidity. Finishes spicy and long, with sneaky tannins and a touch of candied licorice.