2013 Riesling Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd

There is fascinating depth of maritime salinity and alkalinity from the nose through the finish. A hint of struck flint suggests slight reduction. Grapefruit, lemon and white peach form the juicy fruit fundament on a firm but expansive and glycerol-rich palate. This finishes with less clarity and refinement than the corresponding Achleiten and Klaus, though with undeniable intrigue and sheer persistence. And it may well benefit more than those two from a bit longer in bottle. Who could have believed when these vines in a nosebleed sector above Weissenkirchen began producing and Franz Prager predicted “fruit suitable only as a substitute for buckshot” that I would be finding their 2013 rendering less slim and elegant than several other Rieslings in a collection from his estate?

The 2013 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Wachstum Bodenstein offers an impressive, clear, precise and fresh bouquet indicating a deep minerality and great complexity. Full-bodied and intense on the palate, this is a remarkable, elegant and well-balanced, sophisticated wine of great expression and personality. Beautifully concentrated, but always subtle and conscious of its own finesse and beauty, this is surely one of the greatest Vetliners of the vintage in all Austria. Apr 2015, www.robertparker.com