2012 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg

TA 5.6 g/l, RS 5 g/l. Fine lemony aroma. Delicate. Stony, taut, not bone dry on the palate. Slight grip. Good length. Creamy finish. (JH)

RS 5 g/l. Good balance. Limpid, already broachable and slightly toasty. (JR)

A delectable nose of caraway, lima bean, fennel pollen and orange zest in Brundlmayer’s 2012 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg leads into a polished and infectiously juicy palate in which their flavors are deployed in a matrix of white peach, apple, and rhubarb, with alkaline and stony undertones lending allure if, arguably, of a slightly austere and intellectual sort as opposed to that of sensual enticement. The combination of breadth with buoyancy and of richness with refreshment is quite remarkable. I would look for even greater complexity over the next several years and would plan to follow this beauty through at least 2027. “Two thousand twelve is a perfect vintage,” enthuses Willi Brundlmayer, “with great high points but high quality throughout,” and I am certainly not going to dispute that the collection in question commences at an unusually high level even by his extremely well-established standards. Incidentally, Brundlmayer relates that he has only in recent years been laying away portions of his most important wines sealed with screw caps (a form of closure that he has been utilizing for some time in his tasting room but only recently begun marketing) and wants a few more years of experience in comparing these with natural cork bottlings before considering any major change in his routine. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300