2004 Belair (St Emilion)

The renaissance at Belair begins in 2005, not 2004. Obviously made from underripe fruit, the 2004's herbaceousness, tart acids, narrowly constructed framework, and lack of charm and depth are clearly problematic. This is a wine for masochists.

Ruby-red. Nicely ripe aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate, licorice and minerals, with a touch of tar. Fatter and fuller than usual for this wine, but still a bit youthfully clenched and brooding, with notes of kirsch, licorice, menthol and currant leaf. Finishes with some edgy oak tannins and bright dark berry fruit.

Lots of alcohol, medium crimson. Warm, mellow nose with some interesting floral topnotes. Very fresh and brisk, but the same fine, very dry tannins as Ausone. Very marked tannins and for the moment a lack of flesh in the middle. It may just be too early to judge this generally distinctive wine. (JR)