2012 Coteaux du Languedoc Deusyls

Tasted out of bottle, the 2012 Deusyls de La Peira Blanc is a blend of Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne that was fermented in concrete and aged in small barrels. Medium-bodied, pure, layered and elegant, with fabulous citrus blossom, white flowers, vanilla, creme and assorted toasty nuances, it’s a smoking white that deserves a classy meal. Enjoy it over the coming 2-4 years. One of reference point producers in the Languedoc, and in my view, easily one of the top estates in all of France, La Peira en Damaisela was created in 2004 by Australian composer Rob Dougan, with the talented Jeremie Depierre making the wines. Covering 11 hectares of gravely, rocky soils in the Terrasses du Larzac region, they produce a single white, based on Roussanne and Viognier, and four red cuvees; the Cinsault/Carignan-driven Les Obriers; the Grenache heavy (includes 25% Syrah and smaller parts Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan) Las Flors de La Peira; their top wine, the La Peira, which is a 60/40 blend of Syrah and Grenache; and a tiny amount of pure Mourvedre, the Matissat. Looking at the vintages reviewed here, 2013 and 2012 show lots of similarities, both yielding fresh, lively and focused wines. For 2013, Dougan says that it “Combines that delicacy and youthful feeling of finesse of the 2012 - but with more the frame and body of 2011 - or even a hint of the 2010” and I can’t argue with him. The 2012s certainly have a similarly elegant feel, yet I think lack a touch of the concentration found in the 2013s; nevertheless, they offer fabulous purity and should be approachable at an earlier stage. The 2011s, which I find similar to the 2009s (and a vintage compared to a mix of 2010 and 2012 by Dougan), are ripe and up-front, with already approachable profiles and loads of fruit. The 2010s here are, in my view, the most impressive (and up with the 2007s and 2009s) in the bunch, with fabulous concentration that’s paired with vibrant acidities and brilliant purity of fruit. In most cases, the 2010s will be even better with additional cellaring. www.lapeira.wordpress.com; Imported by Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565