2008 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru
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The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is made from young vines in Ruchottes the estate re-planted in 2000. The wine shows gorgeous inner perfume in its crushed flowers, rose petals, berries and mint, with a crystalline purity I find especially appealing. The finish is elegant and poised. This is a jewel of a wine from Mugneret-Gibourg. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. This is an impressive set of wines from sisters Marie-Andree and Marie-Christine Mugneret. I can’t think of too many estates that did so well in both 2008 and 2009. Beginning with the 2009 vintage, the estate has simplified their name to Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, which should eliminate some of the confusion of past years. The 2009 harvest began on September 12. The fruit was 100% destemmed. Marie-Andree Mugneret told me she was concerned about over-extracting given the inherent richness in the fruit, so she opted for a gentle approach to vinification. Cuvaison ranged from 15-20 days. After pressing the wines were moved into oak, where they saw one racking just after the malos. New oak ranged from 10% for the Bourgogne, 25% for the Vosne-Romanee, 40% for the Chaignots, 45% for the Feusselottes and 70% for the Grand Crus, from four different coopers. During the time of my visit the wines were being moved into steel, where they would remain for three months prior to bottling. Mugneret planned to bottle with no fining or filtration. Readers should also pay close attention to the estate’s 2008s, which are simply brilliant. The 2008 harvest started on the 22nd of September. Some of the malos took as long as a year to finish. Importers: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300, a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
Punteggi della critica
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
(made from recently replanted Ruchottes-Chambertin vines): Palish red. Perfumed, complex nose combines strawberry, raspberry, cherry, flowers and a hints of soil. In a drier style, with less mid-palate depth than the foregoing samples. Sappy red berry flavors don't quite have the depth or sweetness to stand up to the wine's somewhat peppery tannins. But not bad.
Good bright red. Cherry, licorice, underbrush and a hint of menthol on the rather inexpressive nose. Supple and moderately sweet, but without the grip or thrust-or the ripeness-of the best 2008s here; suggestion of pomegranate. Boasts good breadth, but the acids come off as a bit tart on the finish, which features dusty tannins. Seem a bit disjointed today.