1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa (a composite blend) is highly-extracted, but very light. It obviously reflects the challenges presented by this vintage. Dry tannin in the finish might turn out to be cause for concern, but there is still plenty of cassis fruit in this medium to full-bodied Cabernet, but it is more compressed than usual. Dunn will undoubtedly build more flesh and fruit into it before bottling, but we will have to wait another year to find out. If Godzilla drank California Cabernet Sauvignon, would there be any doubt as to what choice it would be? Anyone who has regularly tasted Randy Dunn's Cabernet Sauvignons (first produced in 1979) realizes several things. They all possess the following characteristics: (1) remarkable color and richness, (2) massive personalities with huge tannic structures, (3) gorgeous purity and unreal aging potential. Last year I reported on a tasting where all of Dunn's top wines back through the 1982 vintage were served. Remarkably, they had hardly budged in development, yet they were still exceptionally rich in their pure creme de cassis, black raspberry, and blackberry fruit notes. These are obviously more than 20-25 year wines. It is not far-fetched to suggest that Randy Dunn is producing Cabernet Sauvignons that, in top vintages, will be fresh, lively, and rich in fruit at age 50. Unbelievably, Randy Dunn has barely raised his prices in the two decades he has been making wine. For those with patience, these are among the finest values in long-lived, classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Tel. (707) 965-3642; Fax (707) 965-3805