1997 Les Grands Marechaux

Mid russet red. Light and sweet with some delicacy and a great deal more interest than I can think of in any other wine at this sort of price – but you would have to like acidity to enjoy it. And the tannins haven’t melted yet either. I can’t see the fruit holding up too much longer but Stephan Derenoncourt has worked his magic on this bargain. (JR)