1999 Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos

Aszú grapes 70% Furmint, 30% Zéta, macerated mainly in fermenting must of Furmint and Hárslevel ű. Lots of discussion in Tokaj about 1999 v 2000. 1999 was a classic vintage with a hot summer and lots of botrytis that arrived quite early. (1993 was the other classic vintage of the 1990s.) RS 160 g/l, TA 12.6 g/l. Dark tawny with strong orange notes. Masses of acidity but there is lots of ripe fruit too so it doesn’t intrude. Very classic Tokaji structure. Strong fresh apricot note. Confident exposition of the style. Creamy, compact with great follow-through. (JR)

(165 g/l r.s.): Bright yellow-gold. Fabulous evolving aromas of exotic orange, spices and petrol, with a distinct Madeira quality. Incredible penetrating acidity (reportedly around 15 grams per liter!) cuts through the wine (and my gums), intensifying the juicy, almost riesling-like soft citrus and spice flavors complicated by tobacco and cedar. Not a particularly fleshy style but finishes with outstanding palate-saturating length. In spite of the petrolly note on the nose, this wine is still an infant.

The 1999 Tokaji Aszu 6-Puttonyos is a blend of 70% Furmint and 30% Zeta, the base wine 90% Furmint and 10% Harslevelu that was fermenting when the aszu was added. Aged in barrel with partial new oak, it has a very intense, overtly botrytized bouquet furnished with dried mango, marmalade and Oriental spices. Later some tertiary aromas begin to emerge. The palate is viscous right from the opening. The acidity is nicely judged with a piercing citric edge. It continues with dried honey, mandarin, marmalade and Seville orange, the latter really driving the finish. The length is impressive, and you can see it aging for some years yet. Drink now-2040+. Disznoko became part of French insurance giant AXA Millesime’s portfolio in 1992, though the name existed prior to Soviet occupation, not as a winery estate but as the site of a First Growth as recorded in 1732 (think of it being similar to a French lieu-dit.) Director Lazlo Meszaros has been at the helm here since 1995, Seely providing what you might describe as a “guiding hand” and advice during the harvest and blending. The three-tiered winery located just outside the town of Mad is relatively large in scale for the region, perhaps seen as a statement of intent when AXA-Millesimes branched out into Tokaj. Its aging cellar is carved out of the rock below the winery some 10 metres below the ground, accommodating their French and Hungarian 225-liter oak barrels, of which approximately one-third are new. They cultivate 105 hectares of vine in a single L-shaped block above the winery. Only estate-grown fruit is used, the vines comprising of 60% Furmint, 30% Harslevelu, 9% Zeta and 1% Yellow Muscat. In terms of their approach, I would refer you to Lazlo’s comments in the introduction to this piece, where he offers interesting perspectives toward botrytis formation and aszu blending. Needless to say, this was a strong set of Tokaji wines. Lazlo made it clear that while they acknowledge the proliferation of dry wines, Disznoko is and always will be focused upon sweet 5- and 6-Puttonyos aszu wines. Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000