2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Trockenbeerenauslese

The Christoffel 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese was sorted out from the other pickings across this site. Apricot and strawberry preserves, white raisin, mocha, caramel and honey fill the nose and mouth, and despite the creamy, viscously-honeyed palate-saturation that is administered, the promised sense of lift and even delicacy miraculously materializes. Far gone as this is in a caramelized, shriveled-berry and simply over-ripe direction, it remains on the patisserie side of the flavor spectrum, without offering citrus juice or (yet, at least) intimations of minerality. Remarkable for its sheer richness as well as uncanny lightness of touch, this concentrate is simply so embryonic – and quite possibly ageless – that one hesitates to render any verdict. (And, no, the price – $593 for a half bottle – is not a misprint!) Hans-Leo Christoffel says he thought Robert Eymael must be jumping the gun when he began the harvest here, even though it was the 9th of October, but that it turned out not to have been too early at all. “Well, I wouldn’t ever have been able to catch up otherwise,” says Eyamel, “there weren’t that many pickers available. In three weeks, we finished.” And with what results! For further details on the Christoffel-Eymael collaboration, consult issue 163, and for notes on Eymael’s exceptional solo 2006 collection, see under “Monchhof” below. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300