1991 Quinta do Vesuvio

Ruby with a rim turning to brick. Strangely, this seems to have an almost wood-aged, rancio character on the nose. Some heat seems to have affected this wine. Dry and dusty and quite evolved with dry tannins on the finish and a slight lack of fruit. Not bad but hardly one of the finest. (JR)

The 1991's impressive color and flashy nose of pepper, spice, earth, black truffles, and black fruits, suggest a developed, forward character. Medium to full-bodied, with significant tannin and moderate sweetness, this 1991, although impressive, was almost overwhelmed in a blind, peer group tasting by some of the more rich and concentrated examples. Already approachable, give the 1991 5-7 years of cellaring and drink it over the next 20-25. Importer: Premium Ports & Madeiras, Sausalito, CA; tel. (415) 331-7656.