1997 Riesling Clos St Hune

(one of the driest wines in the tasting at 1.9 grams per liter r.s.): Very pale yellow. Pineapple, wet stone, minerals and a whiff of toasted bread on the nose; a smoky petrol note added complexity with air. Big and rich in the mouth, with a slightly sweet impression. One of the broadest examples of Clos Ste. Hune in the tasting, even a bit blowsy in the context of this normally sharply chiseled wine. Still showing plenty of lemon and grapefruit pungency but could use a bit more grip.

From The Purple Notebook – Dinner in North London. A bit austere, light nose and high acid. Pretty tough and very lean. Some lime elements. Does this just need time? (JR)

The world-renowned Riesling Clos Ste. Hune is produced from 40 year old vines in a 1.38 hectare parcel (3.4 acres) located within the Rosacker grand cru. Some of the finest Rieslings I have ever tasted have hailed from this tiny plot. The 1997 Riesling Clos Ste. Hune (it should be released in 2002) displays strong floral aromas interlaced with ripe apricots. Reminiscent of a restrained Viognier, it reveals flavors of peaches, perfume, chalk, and honeysuckle blossoms in its opulently-textured personality. This medium-to-full-bodied, extraordinarily rich wine possesses a superbly focused, mineral-dominated finish. As it sorts itself out in Trimbach's cold cellars it should come together to become one of the finest Clos Ste. Hunes of the decade. Projected maturity: 2005-2012+. Importer: Esprit Du Vin French Wine Merchants & Select European Estates, 48 Harbor Park Drive, Port Washington, NY 11050; www.edvwines.com