2009 Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir

Vines on own roots – mainly Wadenswil clone AM 10/5 – makes a massive difference to Pinot, says winemaker Lynnette Hudson, giving more structured wines. 10/5 is good on its own roots. Lots of small separate batches – up to 60 – because parcels are so varied. Deeper ruby than the Main Divide Pinot. Very fragrant. Bright cherry but also some spice and savoury. Much firmer and denser than most Pinots from vines on gravel in this region. Firm grip, hint of oak spice and firm but fine texture. Very fresh finish. (JH)

Medium ruby-purple colored, the 2009 Pinot Noir offers a moderate intensity of raspberry, red cherry and pomegranate aromas at this stage with a yeasty / toasty undercurrent and a whiff of hung meat. The medium bodied palate is elegantly fruited with a medium level of fine tannins, lively acidity and a long finish. Still very young, it should drink best 2012 to 2017+. The Donaldson family initially planted vines at this Waipara estate in 1986, at first with a whole fruit salad of vines including a mix of Bordeaux varietals. With the benefit of trial and error, now the focus at Pegasus Bay is on Riesling and Pinot Noir. Husband and wife team, Lynnette Hudson and Matt Donaldson, are the dynamic duo heading-up winemaking these days and, as the notes of the verticals of back vintages I tasted with them will attest, the wines from this commendable estate not only have staying power, they just get better and better. Importer: Empson USA, Alexandria, VA.

Medium red. Aromas of raspberry, smoke, spices and caraway seed. Silky, sweet and generous, with impressive breadth to the red berry and mineral flavors. Not overly fruity today, but this plush, complex wine should reward a few years of cellaring. Pegasus Bay's pinot consistently beats the pants off most New Zealand examples for sheer suavity of texture.