2004 Cotes du Rhone Reserve

The top cuvee of Cotes du Rhone is the Clos du Caillou Reserve, which is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre. In 2004 this is a wine that exhibits a lot more black raspberry, cherry, and pure fruit notes with a hint of crushed rocks and flowers. The 2004 is a beauty – pretty, spicy, earthy, with loads of red and black fruits. I would drink it in the next 3-5 years After the tragic death of the young proprietor, Jean-Denis Vacheron, following the 2001 harvest, his widow Sylvie, assisted by winemaker Bruno Gaspard as well as renowned oenologist Philippe Cambie, has gone through a transitional period but has finally gotten this estate back to the brilliant heights her husband achieved between 1998 and 2001. 2004 is a strong vintage but is surpassed/eclipsed by the brilliant wines of 2005. This is great news for an estate that had long sold much of its production to negociants and then had a complete renaissance when the late Jean-Denis Vacheron took over control in 1996. Sylvie Vacheron is to be applauded for maintaining his vision of distinctive wines of world-class quality. The 2004s are the strongest vintage since 2001, but even they have to take a backseat to the 2005s. Importers: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910, and a Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchant, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

Ruby-red. Exotic five-spice powder and patchouli notes accent aromas of fresh raspberry and strawberry liqueur. Deep, concentrated and sweet, with wonderfully vibrant red berry flavors, suave tannins and remarkable palate coverage for a Cotes du Rhone. The finish builds and the energetic red fruit expands, leaving a bright, juicy quality behind. This could easily pass for a top-notch Chateauneuf.

Very rich, round, sweet and smooth. Amazing richness and length. Quite seductive. £138 a case from Genesis but better value than many a Châteauneuf. (JR)