2009 Cornas

Almost as good, yet in a completely different style, the 2009 Cornas is about as sexy and voluptuous as Cornas gets! Loaded with kirsch, licorice, dried flowers and smoked meat-like aromas and flavors, this awesome 2009 has thrilling concentration, full-bodied richness and knockout length. It has the fruit to impress today, but needs 3-4 years of bottle age and will have over two decades of longevity. Always a fun visit, this small vertical took place in Clape’s cellar in Cornas, with Pierre-Marie Clape, who’s now running the estate. We also tasted through multiple barrels of their 2012s and 2013s, but I’ll wait and include that commentary in the northern Rhone report due out in October. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Opaque violet color. The nose offers a kaleidoscopic bouquet of red and dark berry scents along with incense, candied violet, licorice and smoky minerals. Pretty much a distillation of syrah, showing superb clarity and intensity on the palate, with excellent depth and clarity to the sweet black raspberry and floral pastille flavors. The mineral quality builds with air and adds focus and cut to the long, spicy, strikingly pure finish. This is one of the best wines I tasted from the northern Rhone this vintage and appears to be destined for a very long life.

From old vines (close to a century in age) in Sabarotte: Pungent aromas of licorice and cassis, with a sexy floral quality and a hint of licorice pastille. Very good clarity on the powerful, clinging finish. From 50-year-old vines in La Cote: Deeply pitched cassis and plum aromas, with pungent floral and herb qualities. Lush and expansive dark fruit compote flavors and intense spiciness. Seriously long and chewy. From 80+ year-old vines in Reynard: Hypnotically perfumed bouquet of red and dark berries, with a sexy floral quality. Very rich but lively as well; shows great depth and richness, with intense raspberry and mulberry character.