2005 Gevrey Chambertin Poissenots

From a single premier cru parcel planted by Geantet’s grandfather in 1949 in the nose-bleed bleachers of the commune (above Lavaux St.-Jacques and Les Verroilles), the 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Poissenot displays a uniquely alkaline, and maritime note in the nose, along with scents of ripe black cherry and roasted game. This presents terrific depth and richness on the palate, offering a veritable butcher shop of carnal delights, including raw beef, salted, smoked pork and long-hung game. Not that fruit is slighted: there is strong, sweetly ripe black cherry throughout, and a malbec-like amalgam of black raspberry, white pepper and cardamom emerges as the wine takes on air. Creamy, rich, sappy, and sleek, this finishes with gum-clinging strength and refinement, invigoratingly saline and brightly black-fruited. A delight already, this distinctively superb Gevrey will no doubt benefit from 5-7 years of cellaring. Vincent Geantet as usual bottled well before year’s end, and his wines seemed to be having a particularly expressive, fruit-filled day when I tasted. Interestingly, much as he bottles all of his wines together, so, Geantet’s barrel regimen is the same regardless of appellation: one-third each of new, one-year and two-year wood. He prolonged the pre-fermentative maceration to eight days, which seems to have enhanced the brightness of fruit exhibited by these wines. I must say I did not come prepared for quite such an impressive collection as that which Geantet delivered. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722 9228

(these vines are about 45 years old) Deep red-ruby. Captivating aromas of wild black raspberry, minerals and game, along with a saline note. Suave and fine-grained on entry, then at once saline and sweet in the middle, with lovely mounting mineral perfume toward the back. Offers a more pliant texture and silkier tannins than the En Champs, suggesting that this very long wine will be drinkable a bit earlier.