2008 Lirac Reine des Bois

The 2008 Lirac Cuvee de la Reine des Bois is a very strong effort in this challenging vintage. Composed of equal parts Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah (from 40-year-old vines), it exhibits surprising density for the vintage along with abundant red and black fruit, licorice, truffle and loamy soil notes. Full-bodied with admirable fruit purity and a long, heady finish, it is best drunk over the next 3-4 years. Domaine de la Mordoree has done such a great job over the last 15 years that winemaker and owner Christophe Delorme and the Mordoree name are essentially synonymous with high quality, whether it’s Cotes du Rhone red, Cotes du Rhone white, rose wines, or their flagship offerings from Lirac and Chateauneuf du Pape. Even in challenging vintages, Mordoree is usually among the finest wines of the year, a tribute to their meticulous viticulture and winemaking. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

A blend of equal parts Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, the 2008 Domaine de la Mordorée Lirac Cuvée de la Reine des Bois is 100% destemmed and aged in 30% old wood and the rest in tank. The wine shows good color and a deep, rich bouquet of cassis and blackberry fruits, wood, espresso and charred earth. The fruit is very pure and this improves with air, gaining complexity and more typicity as well. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied with a classy, mid-weight feel, good acidity, ripe fruit and a long, elegant finish. There’s some structure here and this should drink well for a number of years; I’d put money that this is still drinking beautifully at age 10. Outstanding and a great mix of ripe, pure fruit in a medium bodied, classy package.

33% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 33% Mourvèdre . Perfumed and aromas of vanilla. Strangely this smells more of Grenache than the Dame Rousse, even though there is more Mourvèdre here. On the palate you get more rigour and minerality, more depth and length, but it is currently a bit too dry on the finish, hence the minus. (JH)