2011 Columella

Bright medium ruby. Knockout perfume of raspberry, cherry, smoke and menthol; this one also reminded me of a Rayas. Lush, suave and dry, showing a compelling savory quality to its raspberry and flinty mineral flavors. Finishes classically dry and backward, even a bit ungiving today, but with palate-staining length. This has all the elements to make a great bottle, but it calls for at least six or seven years of additional cellaring.

The 2011 Columella is more reticent on the nose when compared directly against the 2010: straight-laced and linear with subtle tertiary notes that unfurl with aeration. This seems more masculine than the previous vintage. The palate is vibrant and poised on the entry with fresh crisp tannins, effervescent citrus fresh red and black fruit, a dash of white and black pepper and a beautifully poised finish. Once those aromatics awaken with time, this will be a stunning Columella. Drink 2015-2025. Eben Sadie simply wrote “old rules” in the spec sheet for his Old Vine Series, which sums up his approach perfectly. You never quite know what you will get with the wines – so please bear that in mind. That is what makes them so thrilling, because when they do excel they can represent something that attains true profundity, wines that are willing to offer intellectual as well as sensory pleasure. They are produced in small quantities so they can be difficult to track down, though in my opinion they remain very keenly priced?for now. Eben Sadie told me at the Cape Wine Show back in September 2012 that he was looking forward to focusing all his energies upon South Africa, now that he has relinquished his venture in Priorat. His wines continue to furrow their own individual path, distinctive in so many ways. At some future point I plan to write in more detail about Eben, so for now let’s get straight to what is another raft of exceptional wines. Importer: Broadbent Selections, Richmond, VA; tel. (804) 353-1818