2010 Columella

From a warm vintage. 80% S yrah, 17% Mourvèdre, 3% Grenache from eight vineyards. Yield 14–18 hl/ ha. 'French oak barrels, Bordeaux Traditional selection. Tight grain. The ageing takes place for 12 months on the lees and then we rack and an additional year of ageing takes place in big oval casks (foudre) on the fine lees.' Garnet. Bit more muted and salty on the nose than some vintages, with a hint of cocoa. Sweet and round but a tad baked-tasting with a little heat on the end. (JR)

Bright medium ruby. Aromas of crushed cherry, raspberry, minerals and smoke. Lush and rich but still extremely young, offering outstanding breadth and silky texture to its flavors of red fruits and flinty minerality. The most enveloping vintage yet for Columella: this wine combines the best traits of the 2008 and 2009 and then takes them to a higher level. Finishes classically dry, with noble fine-grained tannins and great fruity persistence. This one hit my G-spot. Like a hypothetical blend of grand cru Burgundy and Chateau Rayas.

Purplish crimson. Rather sweet, perfumed nose. Great texture and very appetising acid level but again, a bit like the Soldaat, very aggressively short of juice. But the ingredients here work and form a fascinating mosaic. Should age well and there is lots of energy here. Bone dry treacle toffee flavours. (JR)