2010 Gigondas Les Souteyrades

A 1,000-case offering from gray clay soils, the 2010 Gigondas Les Souteyrades is also made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre from 65-year-old vines. It represents what Saurel believes is his finest parcel of old vines. This cuvee is always the richest and fullest of this trio of Gigondas, and it can also contain more truffle, herbs, tannin and structure. A complex, intricate Gigondas, it offers a terrific perfume of truffles, forest floor, acacia flowers, and lots of black and red fruits. It hits the palate with a deep, expansive, round, full-bodied mouthfeel, and finishes long. This 2010 is capable of drinking well for 12-15+ years. Bravo! One of my favorite Gigondas estates is proprietor Joel Saurel’s Saint-Damien (now one of the appellation’s superstars). Saurel also produces several Cotes du Rhone cuvees that are nearly as good as his superb Gigondas. The 2011 Cotes du Rhones, which were bottled early to preserve their fruit, are about as good as Cotes du Rhone can be in this vintage. The 2010s are close in quality although not quite at the level of the finest vintage I have ever tasted from Saurel, his 2007s. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

My favorite of the Gigondas lineup, the blockbuster 2010 Domaine Saint-Damien Gigondas Les Souteyrades (80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre aged all in tank) is wildly perfumed and aromatic, as well as incredibly full-bodied, rich, and concentrated. Showing thrilling notes of wild herbs, orange peel, garrigue, exotic flowers, and layers of ripe fruit, this hedonistic, yet gorgeously proportioned 2010 has massive fruit, awesome freshness and focus, and a firm, tannic core. No doubt it is a superb drink now, but it will be even better in 2-3 years, and evolve gracefully for two decades.

(80% grenache and 20% mourvedre): Bright purple. Heady scents of dark berry preserves, olive and licorice, with slow-building florality. Powerful, palate-staining blackberry and cassis flavors are lifted by notes of cracked pepper and zesty minerality. Chewy tannins add grip to the long, smoky finish, which strongly echoes the floral note.