2005 Gevrey Chambertin

A very ripe but reserved nose features warm earth and hints of game on the intense red berry fruit aromas that merge into rich, full and delicious flavors supported by suave tannins and a concentrated and driving finish. This is a big and high quality villages that is balanced and deep.

Dugat’s micro-climatically diverse parcels of village Gevrey with vines 30-50 years of age inform his 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, which had just been bottled when I visited (whereas the other wines would be bottled in a month or more). Dugat says his sulfuring was as light as possible, and this wine is certainly not suffering in any obvious way. It boasts a wonderfully silky suppleness of texture, juicy and engaging black raspberry and pomegranate fruit character, and a finish featuring notes of game, forest floor, fruit skin tartness, and the bitter side of vanilla bean, but with more brightness, lift and exuberance than the firm and darkly-shaded wines typical of this vintage. Not that this wine lacks for grip or visceral intensity. Sock some away for 8-10 years. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.

Full red-ruby color. Black cherry and chocolate on the nose. Fat, sweet and chunky, with very ripe flavors similar to the aromas, along with a hint of game. Tannins are sweet for a village wine.