2006 Gevrey Chambertin Coeur du Roi Vieilles Vignes

The Dugat-Py 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur Du Roi captures this bottling's typically mysteriously marine, saline, iodine-laced, shrimp shell reduction-like mineral streak, along with its typical sweetness of diverse black fruits (here raspberry and cherry). The fine grain of the tannins permits a luscious sense of fluidity and seductively soothing, satiny texture, while notes of cocoa powder and darkly roasted coffee reinforce the sense of sweetness. As usual, this represents a striking though equally palate-staining and (in its unique way) equally mineral contrast to the Les Evocelles. It should drink well for at least 10-12 years. As usual, Bernard Dugat prided himself on having been able to harvest ahead of the ban de vendange thanks to the intensity of his vineyard labors and to yields of around 25 hectoliters per hectare. (He also credits the accumulated effects of three years on a biodynamic regimen.) Potential alcohol was for the most part in the high 12s, and only a handful of cuvees were lightly chaptalized, Dugat reports. As usual, too, he employed significant percentages of whole clusters and stems in most wines. For further details on Bernard Dugat's approach, see my report in issue 170. Perhaps it hardly requires noting, but the prices of these wines continue to rise relentlessly, sadly but perhaps inevitably putting them out of the reach of most Burgundy lovers. And unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste the two red appellation Bourgogne bottlings of this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800