2007 Graacher Domprobst Spatlese

The Schaefer 2006 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese A.P. #12 smells and tastes of ripe, dripping apple and peach laced with citrus. Yet for all of the juicy refreshment this delivers, its texture is subtly creamy. Mint, cassis, chewy apple skin, and peach fuzz add invigoration to the finish, along with hints of iodine and wet stone. This should continue in its generous vein for two decades. Willi Schaefer and Christoph harvested until mid-November. “There wasn’t any botrytis until the end of October,” relates Schaefer senior, “and what little botrytis there was, was clean.” Some of the excitement here, though, comes at the light end of the Oechsle scale. This year’s Schaefer Kabinetts represent outstanding values. But more than that, they display by turns delicacy and density, jewel-like intricacy and simplicity, elective affinity for our appetites and mystery, such as only a great work of nature confers. And if you prefer that they taste less sweet, just don’t start drinking them before they reach age ten! Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300