1956 Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu

A dark yellow-golden color dresses Gaston Huet's 1956 Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Demic-Sec, which comes from another poor vintage but opens with a clear, intense and fruity bouquet of quince and apricot confiture along with flavors of crushed stones, rubbed lemon peels, ginger, wet earth and carrots. Concentrated, almost dry and very piquant on the palate, with a straight and rigid acidity along with a firm minerality, this is an intense wine but surely no palate pleaser (rather a cleanser) -- more so because of the grippy and astringent, slightly rustic finish. A pretty good and surely complex and concentrated though not very elegant or balanced wine from a poor, late vintage. Serve this fresh and almost austerely dry Chenin with food and enjoy over the next ten or 15+ years. It will neither die soon nor improve from here. (289 EUR)