1936 Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu

There is probably no older Huet on the primary market than the 1936 Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec – and that's good news for the freaks among our readers – but of the oldest Huet, there are still five bottles available. It comes from an "average year" (Richard Kelley), with the harvest starting not earlier than the 2nd of November. However, this is one of the most fascinating and distinctive wines in this tasting. The 1936 has an orange-tinted amber color. The nose is nothing but amazing, very clear and pure but concentrated, malty, spicy, and full of finesse, freshness and precision in its stone fruit, orange zest and tea flavors. On the palate this is an ancient, liquid version of a laser beam: straight, precise, concentrated, robust, very sharp, intense and endless. This mind-blowing, finesse-full Chenin reminds me of some 1920 Rieslings (maybe also 1921, which were probably more rich and generous), since it is so vital and stable, so firm, grippy and cool, so robust, tension-filled and long that I can't draw any comparison to any of the Huets I had in my life. The 1936 is unique and the fact that it is demi-sec (it tastes like something nearer to 20 than to 30 g/l of residual sugar!) instead of sweet (moelleux) makes it even more stunning. The acidity gives drive, tension and length, and makes this an almost immortal wine. There is so much finesse and freshness in this wine, so much energy and vibrancy that it competes with the very finest Huets of all times, if you can accept purity, freshness and straightness. The salinity and earthy flavors of turf remind me of a Laphroaig Whisky.