1997 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence

The floral 1997 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence is an embracing, flamboyant, luxurious, and medium-to-full-bodied wine. Waves of clove-spiked lychees, cherries, mangoes, and pineapples are found in its sexy personality. This powerful, expressive offering is bold enough to put tasters used to insipid wines into catatonic shock. Projected maturity: now-2006. Since Laurence Faller took over the winemaking duties at Domaine Weinbach (1993/94) there have been marked stylistic changes to the wines. They remain extremely well-made, rich, and concentrated yet are less generous in their youth than under the former winemaker's regime. I am, however, convinced that the wines presently being produced at this famed estate will be longer-lived than those from the past. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.