2005 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese GK

Scents of over-ripe pear and musk melon rise from a glass of the 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule A.P. #9. In the mouth, this positively drips with a condensed concentration of sweet floral perfume, along with grilled pink grapefruit and honey-drenched pear and melon. Almost gaudy in comparison with its siblings and decidedly softer and more overtly sweet, it finishes with peach, pear, and quince preserves of compelling concentration and clarity, even if its nectar-like emphasis on extremely ripe fruits and heady florality leave no apparent room – at least at this stage – for mineral nuances. Ernst Loosen is fond of saying that a great Mosel Auslese should be like a hamster in its youth, storing up fat and sugar for a long sleep. To the extent one trucks with that metaphor, I cannot imagine a better illustration, and I would wait at least a decade before pulling the next cork on this Auslese and commencing a further 20 years of satisfying contemplation. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($20.00; 86). Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463